Despite its iconic status in the town of Banff, it had been a while since I ventured up to the Juniper Hotel Bistro for dinner but, boy am I glad I did: it has firmly re-entered the chat as one of my favourite places to eat in the Bow Valley.
Sitting pretty at the base of Mount Norquay, during the day Juniper basks in sunlight and iconic mountain views, and by night it is an alpine sanctuary with roaring fires both indoor and out. Set among the stars, and away from the high-turnover throng of downtown spots, a visit to the restaurant for dinner feels like an immersive treat. Like the staff who serve there, the dining space exudes warmth and amiability with a slight upscale nod.
To my surprise, the menu is one of the most inclusive I have seen in Banff; with an impressive array of dishes “from the earth” as well as plenty of meat and fish options. Of the extensive vegetable-forward menu items, I found the butternut squash “steak” to be delightfully flavour-packed. Drizzled with tahini and served in a malt vinegar reduction with basil oil and toasted pistachios, this was a balanced and hearty dish that just so happened to be vegan. Also a cut above the norm, the seared Brussels sprouts and glazed carrots were elevated by the artful applications of birch syrup and smoked honey respectively. With a mind firmly in the flavour matrix, chef Catherine Bohn succeeds in creating dishes that please and sparkle on their own, as well as catering to dietary restrictions.
If you, like me, are all up in your fuzzy feels about melted cheese then the cast iron brie is for you (yes, you may take this opportunity to swoon). Gooey and served with a dried fruit and mustard seed compote alongside freshly baked sourdough, this is the perfect sharer for those who want to indulge in a creamy, rich appetizer.
While the beef cheek stuffed potato caught my beady little eye, I opted for a foray into the ocean with a freshly caught B.C salmon with a tart and resplendent sea buckthorn vinaigrette and balancing maple creme fraiche. The winner of the evening, however, was the jaw dropping sweet corn puree, sea asparagus and charcoal butter accompaniment to the seared scallops and pork belly. I could have eaten this alone as my very own soup du jour. Bravo chef!
I was pleased to see a curated wine list celebrating Canadian viniculture with offerings from the Okanagan as well as Ontario and Halifax. Additionally, a large portion of the cocktail menu has been made in collaboration with Canmore’s stellar Wild Life Distillery. I particularly enjoyed the barrel aged hibiscus sour made with Wild Life’s barrel aged gin, Saint Germain, lemon juice, locally gathered hibiscus syrup, rose, and a vegan foam.
The dessert menu kept the high notes chiming. Also replete with multiple vegan options, I tried the poached pear with maple “nuggets” and vanilla cream, plus the eye-catching cast iron Saskatoon berry cobbler that was as pleasingly doused in crème anglaise as it was colourful.
After a wonderful and textbook “hearty” evening, I am already itching to head back to the Juniper. Who’s coming?
Juniper Hotel Bistro is open daily for breakfast and dinner. Visit thejuniper.com for hours, menus and reservations.
